Most of Amman's noteworthy historical sites clustered in the downtown area, which sits at the bottom of four of Amman's seven hills, or jabals. The ancient Citadel, which towers above the city from atop Jabal al-Qala'a, is a good place to begin a tour of the city. The Citadel is the site of ancient Rabbath-Ammon, and excavations here have revealed many Roman, Byzantine and early Islamic remains. The most impressive building of the Citadel, known simply as al-Qasr ("the Palace"), dates from the Islamic Umayyad period. It's exact role is unclear, but it includes a monumental gateway, an audience hall and four vaulted chambers. A colonnaded street also runs through the complex. To the north and north-east are the ruins of Umayyad palace grounds.
Close to al-Qasr lay the remains of a small Byzantine basilica. Corinthian columns mark the site of the church, thought so far from the sixth or seventh century CE. About 100 meters south of the church have been a temple of Hercules, today also known as the Great Temple of Amman. The temple built in the reign of the emperor Marcus Aurelius (161-180 CE), and is under restoration.
Also on Citadel Hill, just north-west of the Temple of Hercules, is the Jordan Archeological Museum. This small museum houses an excellent collection of antiquities ranging from prehistoric times to the 15th century. There is an exhibit of the Dead Sea Scrolls, a copy of the Mesha Stele (see Madaba section for explanation) and four rare Iron Age sarcophagi.
Museum hours are 08:30-17:00 daily. On Fridays and official holidays the museum is open from 09:00-16:00.
Downhill from the Citadel and five minutes walk east from downtown, the Roman Theater is the most obvious and impressive relic of ancient Philadelphia. The theater, built during the reign of Antonius Pius (138-161 CE), cut into the northern side of a hill that once served as a "necropolis" or graveyard. It is similar in design to the amphitheater at Jerash, and can hold 6000 spectators. The theater still used periodically for sporting and cultural events.
Two small museums built into the foundations of the Roman theater. The Jordan Folk-lore Museum is in the right-wing of the theater and displays a collection of items showing the traditional life of local people. At the other end of the theater stage, the Museum of Popular Traditions displays traditional Jordanian costumes, including fine embroidery and beautiful antique jewelry. It also houses several sixth-century mosaics from Madaba and Jerash. The Museum of Popular Traditions is open daily 09:00-17:00, and closed on tuesday.
The Jordan Folk-lore Museum is open every day from 09:00-17:00, except Friday when it's hours are 10:00-16:00.
To the north-east stands the small theater, or Odeon, which is still being restored. Built when the Roman theater, this intimate 500-seat theater used now as it was in Roman times, for musical concerts. Archaeologists think the building originally covered with a wooden or temporary tent roof to shield performers and audiences from the elements.
Heading south-west from the theater complex, Philadelphia's chief fountain, or Nymphaeum, stands with it's back to Quraysh Street. Much of the fountain, completed in 191 CE, hidden from public view by private houses and shops.
The Nymphaeum believed to have contained a 600 square meter pool, three meters deep, continuously refilled with freshwater. Jordan's Department of Antiquities is excavating the Nymphaeum, and eventually hopes to restore the site to it's original structure by 2010.
From the Nymphaeum, the short stroll to the King Hussein Mosque bustles with pedestrians, juice stands and sellers. The area around the King Hussein Mosque, also known as al-Husseini Mosque, is the heart of modern downtown Amman. The Ottoman-style mosque rebuilt in 1924 on the site of an ancient mosque, probably also the site of the cathedral of Philadelphia. Between the al-Husseini Mosque and the Citadel is Amman's famous gold souq, which features row after row of glittering gold treasures.
Amman Guide: History | Sights of Interest
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